Travel patiently: It takes time to understand others, especially when there are barriers of language and custom; keep flexible and adaptable to all situations.
As I've written these posts about my trip to Peru and my adventures in the Andes, I found it impossible to include everything I wanted to. Either I wouldn't think of some event or detail at the time I was writing about a given day, or I'd think I'd been blathering on for far too long already and should just call it good. As a result, there are a variety of random observations or experiences that I haven't told you about and thought you might enjoy. Here they are, in no particular order, along with a few photos I thought you might enjoy.
Coca Yes, I mean the plant cocaine is made from, not the one chocolate comes from - that's cacao. Before I left, I read and was told that chewing coca leaves is supposed to help with altitude sickness. Peruvians living in the high Andes have a long tradition of chewing the leaves regularly, even though they had to trade with low-landers to get it. It's only been more recently that the cultivation of coca for the production of cocaine has turned it into a large-scale industry. Anyway, chewing coca leaves is still common in Peru, and I wanted to try it.
When I got to my first hotel in Puno, the proprietress asked me if I wanted a cup of coca tea. It's supposed to help one adapt to altitude, too. Of course, I said yes. She made the tea by steeping whole coca leaves in hot water. Later on, I also had it made from crushed leaves in tea bags. Coca tea reminded me of green tea - just a green flavor, I suppose. Not at all bitter or distasteful. I don't know that it helped me adapt to the altitude, but I wasn't having any trouble anyway.
I also tried several varieties of coca candy. It was green in color and flavor, and not too sweet. I enjoyed keeping some in my pocket to suck on while hiking, but mostly just to help keep my mouth wet. Again, I noticed no benefit with regards to altitude.
I did get my chance to try the real thing. Santos, the shaman who accompanied us to Humantay Lake and performed the coca leaf ceremony, had a gallon bag full of dried coca leaves, each about the size of a small bay leaf. Before we headed back to the lodge, I asked if I could try some. I selected six, folded them up together, and stuck them in my mouth. Silver said to chew them slowly and not swallow them. Swallowing my saliva was fine; unlike when one chews tobacco, I didn't need to spit. (Not that I chew tobacco!) After a few minutes, I noticed that my entire mouth was getting numb. A minute or two later, the numbness spread down my throat. In under ten minutes, I was starting to get nauseated. The leaves tasted rather nasty (as most leaves do), and weren't giving me any pleasurable experiences. They were definitely not worth throwing up over, so I spit them out. Once was enough for that Peruvian experience.
Trekking through Peru My mother-in-law commented on a previous post that she'd love to see Machu Picchu, but not if she had to hike over 13,000 feet to get there. Lucky for her, she wouldn't have to. After our day of exploring Machu Picchu, we took the train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo, and then a private bus to Cusco. While one pretty much has to go through Cusco (at 11,000 feet) to get to Machu Picchu, the site itself is under 9,000 feet. And guess what? The train runs both ways! My dear husband kept pointing that out before I left. He couldn't figure out why on Earth I'd choose to hike almost 35 miles and climb to over 15,000 feet when I could just take a train. All I can say is my way was much better. If it's not in the cards for you, however, taking the train to Machu Picchu is perfectly respectable.
Peruvians I've heard several people comment on how nice the Peruvian people are, and I can't say I disagree. Everyone I interacted with was very friendly, if not especially smiley. I also noticed that they tended to be very soft speakers. I frequently had someone say hello to me so quietly that I didn't realize they were talking to me until I was past them. As a result, I missed a chance to talk with a police officer in a riot line in Puno!
I also noticed that the Peruvians had a different sense of personal space, probably not uncommon amongst city dwellers. Both Puno and Cusco had tons of pedestrians, and most were not going to give way on the narrow sidewalks. More often than not, I was the one who stepped out of the way onto the street. I'd never be crazy enough to drive in Peru because it appeared that drivers had the same attitude on the streets.
Religion in Life It was nearly impossible to walk a block, especially in Cusco, without being in sight of a Catholic church or cathedral. This isn't surprising given how ruthless the Spanish were at being "missionaries." What I did find surprising was how prevalent the Incan culture still was in Peru. I mentioned before that the official language is not Spanish, but Quechua, the language the Inca used to help unite their empire. The rainbow flag seen flying from spire tops and storefronts is the flag of the Inca nation. The three sacred symbols of the puma, condor, and serpent are also seen frequently in statuary, fountains, and painted designs. And, of course, the iconic Inca cross is everywhere.
Inca Cross I was fascinated by the symbology in this simple symbol. Unfortunately, I didn't get a photo of one myself, but this picture I stole off the internet (here) shows all the parts I wanted to tell you about.
According to a display at the Museum of Precolumbian Art, the four outer arms of the cross represent the four regions of the Incan empire. The square symbolizes the four elements: earth, air, fire, and water. The large circle represents the everlastingness of the Inca. The triangle is for the three harmonized worlds: the underworld, the middle world of the humans, and the upper world of the gods. (These worlds are also represented by the snake, puma, and condor, respectively.) Finally, the small center circle is the harmonizing force that brings the rest into balance. According to Silver, the three steps on each side of the cross stand for the basic tenets of the Inca that allowed them to live in a reasonably peaceful society: don't steal, don't lie, don't cheat. (It's so much easier to have three commandments than ten!)
Okay, I'm done. I'm sure I'll think of a dozen other things I forgot to mention, but you'll just have to go to Peru and figure them out for yourself. If you do, be sure to tell me all about it. Better yet, take me with you!
