April 25, 2012 - Bhutan
Bhutan and Alaska have at least one thing in common: there are very few roads going anywhere. It's inevitable that if you're going to travel around a small area for very long, you're going to keep going back over the same routes. Our group has been doing that with mountain passes. Today we drove back to Dochu La, the pass with the 108 chortens. This time, we rode down it in the opposite direction as we did four days ago (that post is here).
There were a number of other tourists on the pass as we readied our bikes, including a group of monks, men and women, from Malaysia. Ellen had a great time trying to teach one "monkette" (as Ellen called her) how to ride. She didn't quite get the concept of brakes, so Ellen chased after her at top speed while trying to hold on to the seat.
We set off downhill for our longest ride of the trip, 70 kilometers (~42 miles) all the way to our hotel in Paro. I can tell that I was starting to get used to the sights of Bhutan as I have very few pictures from this day, and my journal entry was almost entirely focused on the riding and how I felt. It was definitely a day during which I had to remind myself, "I'm in Bhutan!"
After 18 km of bombing down the pass, dodging potholes, rocks and trucks, we came to the outskirts of Thimphu. Rinzin kindly let us use the squat toilet in his apartment before we ventured on to our nearby lunch spot. While he had running water, the toilet was flushed by pouring in a cup of water from the adjacent plastic bucket. Nonetheless, it was better than squatting behind a gravel pile, as I did at our lunch spot.
I don't know if Rinzin's apartment was typically Bhutanese, but it sure was a typical bachelor pad. My understanding is that it is where he stays when he's in Thimphu, either for cycling or for his regular job as a truck driver. I'm guessing his wife and family never make it there. Decor consisted of a couple of bikes, a few helmets hanging on the wall, a carved wooden motorcycle (Rinzin owns an Indian), and a autographed photo of Rinzin and Michael J. Fox from a few years ago. Un-hemmed fabric curtains separated the living room from two small bedrooms and a kitchen. Furniture was beyond minimal, but the stack of beer cans along one wall gave proof of its frequent use.
Vicky standing in front of an apartment building (I think it's actually the one next to Rinzin's).
Our lunch was served in a cleared area next to the road, not unlike a gravel pit being overrun by grass. Locals clearly used the area as it was littered with religious objects that looked like the stick and yarn God's eyes kids make in elementary school crafts classes. Yeshey said they were left there to either get rid of bad luck or bring on good luck. A few in our group picked some up, but Yeshey recommended not taking them with us as we didn't know what kind of luck they might bring with them. No convincing was needed; none of us wanted to attract bad karma!
We rode on the national highway that runs between Thimphu and Paro. While it was just as hilly and winding as every other road, at least it had two actual marked lanes and asphalt in reasonably good repair. The highway was just upgraded a few years ago in anticipation of many foreign visitors for the Fifth King's coronation in 2008. I'm sure I wasn't alone in appreciating that road!
It was inevitable. I cannot go on a bike ride without there being a headwind for at least part of the trip. Today was the day for this trip. We had howling headwinds for at least 25 km out of Thimphu until we turned a corner and started following a different river into Paro. Even riding down hills required me to pedal hard in very low gears. The worst part was that the wind sucked every bit of moisture out of me as I panted my way up and down the hills. I was thrilled with how strong my legs and lungs had finally become, but oh, I was still working hard and resting often.
The straw that nearly broke this camel's back was the hotel. It was beautiful. We were greeted with cups of hot tea and lovely cookies in the spacious lobby. Overstuffed leather chairs and couches awaited those who could actually still sit down - not me. Our bags were carried up to our rooms for us. Yes, indeed, I said up. The resort consisted of several buildings connected by outdoor flights of green and white marble staircases. I thought it was quite possible I was going to die before I climbed the four levels to my room. I had to stop and catch my breath, not to mention let my quads rest, halfway through the third set of stairs. An hour or so later, after a lovely hot shower, I had to go back down all those steps to get to the restaurant for dinner. By that time, it was pouring rain. On marble steps. I walked very carefully under a large umbrella. My bed was very comfortable, and I slept well.
Gold-gilded Buddha Dordenma, 169 feet tall, sits on high on a hill overlooking Thimphu.
